The Ghosts of Okinawa

By J. D. Haines

Do you believe in ghosts? Nearly every culture has superstitions about the dead, and Okinawa, Japan, is no exception. The Okinawan culture, with its Chinese and Japanese influences, is very respectful toward the dead. Each summer, in late July or early August, according to the lunar cycle, Okinawans celebrate Obon, the Festival of the Dead. Obon is a Buddhist custom honoring the departed spirits of one’s ancestors. It has come to be a family reunion holiday, when people return to ancestral family homes and visit
 and clean ancestors’ graves.
 Many Okinawans believe that after people die,they exist in a spiritworld, where they can exert powerful influences over the living. Obon is a three-day festival that begins with Unke, which means welcoming day. On the evening of the first day, families hang lanterns outside or place candles along exterior paths to guide the spirits back home. They also open the doors to the house to allow the spirits to enter. Bowls of water are placed at the entrance so spirits can wash their feet after their long journey. The butsu- dan, a family altar containing wooden plaques with the names of ancestors, is adorned with candles, flowers, and offerngs to the spirits.
 The second day, Nakanohi (middle day), involves praying to the ancestors at the butsadan. The third day, Kui, serves to escort the spirits back to their world. Lavish farewell dinners are prepared, incense is lit, and prayers are offered asking for protection and forgiveness of any perceived neglect. Some families throw adanomi (a fruit of adan tree) out the door to signal the ancestors it is time to leave. Others burn paper spirit money (Uchikabi) so the ancestors have no needs on their return to the spirit world.
 When I lived in Okinawa from 2005 to 2007, I witnessed the celebration of Obon in the streets in front of my home. On the third day of the festival, groups of Eisa drummers and dancers wearing a traditional yukata (light cotton kimono), beat loudly upon their drums and chanted, escorting the spirits back to the realm of the departed. Another evening, I was surprised by an elderly Okinawan woman who appeared at my door to offer her services as a psychic. While I didn’t require her services at the time, she left a business card in case the need might arise.

 In a culture that venerates its ancestors by directly acknowledging the exis- tence of their spirits in their homes, it is easy to understand how so many legends abound. Certain members in the Okinawan community are accorded special status because of their perceived super- natural powers. A Kaminchu is a medium;
 a hereditary position in a village usually assumed by a middle-aged woman.
 A Sanjinso is a male fortune-teller who uses the lunar almanac and other books on the Chinese occult to answer questions. He may be called upon to answer questions concerning good days for mar- riages, funerals, and travel. A Yuta is an Okinawan psychic, usually a female, who is consulted in the event of a tragedy or unusual occurrence. Her advice is sought in cases of serious illness, nightmares, eco- nomic hardship, and problems at the fam- ily tomb.
 Anywhere in the world where a tragic loss of life has occurred, experiences with the supernatural are common. During WWII, some Okinawans jumped to their deaths from the cliffs of Maeda Point. The Japanese military, which had enslaved the Okinawans in order to build a system of tunnels on their island, convinced them that the invading Americans would tor-ture and murder them. Many Okinawans committed suicide by jumping off the cliffs into the sea rather than face the “foreign devils.”
 Many visitors to Maeda Point have since experienced inexplicable occurrences. The sensation of sudden cold temperatures in the tropical night, wailing voices and a pushing sensation toward the edge of the cliff are common. A ghostly monk has been seen near the caves at the base of the cliff and many swimmers have drowned in the waters beneath the cliff (the last in October of 2009).

Haunted sites are very common on the numerous U.S. military bases on the island. A WW II soldier in a bloody uni- form is said to roam Gate 3 at Camp Hansen, appearing suddenly to ask the sentries on guard to light his cigarette. The hauntings were so frequent that many Marines refused to stand guard at the gate and it was finally closed.
 Camp Foster is said to be the home of a ghostly Samurai warrior who eter- nally travels from Stillwell Drive up the hill to Futenma Housing. A house on Kadena Air Base, #2283, was converted into storage because no one would live
 there for long, due to reports of ghostly visitations. Some claim that the home rests on an ancient burial ground; others say a murder occurred in the home.
 For more information concerning Okinawan ghosts, Jane Hitchcock has written a small booklet, The Ghosts of Oki- nawa, that contains many more stories covering ghost sightings in central and southern Okinawa, and on the seven U.S. military bases located there. The last two chapters concern Okinawan superstitions and helpful hints for ghost hunting.